Champagne Tarlant, Oeuilly, Vallée de la Marne, France

Wine: There is a strong sense of place reflected in their sophisticated wines. Place in the sense there is a distinct Tarlant style (exquisite!) and also actual place because they press and age each of their 57 plots separately. There is such a precision in the work that I think is clearly reflected in the wines. It starts with the 57 plots and their different soils (chalk, limestone, sand or chalky clay, aka "sparnacien"), then their locations. For example, the "Louis Cuvee" is from the "Les Crayons" plot, which is chalk soil, flat and right by the Marne River or the "Royal Cuvee" from the "Mocque Tonneau" plot on a sunny, steep slope of limestone. They are 90% organic/biodynamic. Then there is the winemaking: Separate vinification of each plot, a lot of barrel fermenting and aging, no malolactic fermentation, lees stirring, gravity-clarification (no filtering), minimum of 5 years of aging and zero to minimal dosage. They are also experimenting with amphora aging, which they began 6 years ago but have not yet released. Benoit (the winemaker) and his team believe the clay will better express the soil of the plots they are aging in the amphorae. 

Tasting of 5 wines: 1. ZERO Brut Nature 1/3 chardonnay, 1/3 pinot noir, 1/3 meunier: Stainless steel and oak aging, mostly 2008 grapes, zero dosage (lime, grapefruit, rhubarb, green apple, yeast). 2. Brut Reserve 1/3 chardonnay, 1/3 pinot noir, 1/3 meunier: Stainless steel and oak aging, mostly 2009 grapes, 5.8g dosage (apple, pear, red fruits, strawberry). 3. Rosé Brut 50% chardonnay, 44% pinot noir, 6% meunier: 2008 & 2009, oak aging, 6g dosage (red fruits, cherry, spices). 4. Cuvée Louis 1996-2000 50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir: "Les Crayons" plot with chalk soil, 65-year-old vines, oak fermentation, zero dosage (honey, yellow apple, roasted peach, creme brulée, complex and wonderful). 5. 2004 "L'Aerienne" 70% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir: Fermented in oak with native "spontaneous" yeasts, zero dosage (lemon creme, brioche, lemon zest, rhubarb tart, rounder and delicious). 

My take: Family-run for more than 300 years, there is a sense of tradition but also a feeling of innovation and openness to ideas. The cellars are some of the most beautiful I have seen! An essential visit in the Valle de la Marne and in Champagne in general for a great lesson in terroir-driven champagne production and exquisite wines to show for it! More on Champagne Tarlant. 

 

Champagne Doyard, Vertus, Cote des Blancs, France

Wine: What pure and elegant wines! Charles Doyard is the 12th generation to grow grapes and the 4th to make wine at Doyard. His guiding principle is to make great wines that pair beautifully with food, but they also have bubbles! When Charles came back home to start working with his father in 2006, his first step was to work diligently in their 11 hectares of vineyards to revitalize the soil. He is practicing as much organic farming as he can but being pragmatic and leaving himself the option to use chemicals when necessary (such as in very rainy years to fight the mildew). Charles believes wines are made in the vineyard. 80% of their chardonnay is cordon-trained rather than chablis-trained (as much of the chardonnay in Champagne is--note the photos below to see the difference--it's cool!). This brings more concentration and more acidity to the grapes. Notable things they are doing in the winery: Using a Coquard hydraulic press, using the absolute minimum amount of SO2 to avoid malolactic fermentation (sometimes it happens partially), aging the wines 8 months before bottling for the 2nd fermentation, aging on the lees a minimum of 3 years and often closer to 5, and doing the least dosage possible - anywhere from zero to 4 at the most. 

Tasting of 5 wines: 1. Cuvée Vendémiaire 1er Cru Brut 100% Chardonnay: Base wine is 2011, 40% barrel & 60% stainless, 15% malolactic fermentation, 4g dosage (lemon, green apple, lemon tart, reminded me of Chablis yum.). 2. Revolution Grand Cru 100% Chardonnay: Zero dosage, 7 years in bottle on lees, 50% barrel/50% stainless, partial malo (white flowers, saline, rhubarb, lemon). 3. 2009 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut: 100% barrel, no malo, .6g dosage (elegant, rounder at first taste then refreshing acid and then long finish of lemon creme, like a Chablis Grand Cru with bubbles). 4. Clos de l'Abbaye 2011 1er Cru Extra Brut 100% Chardonnay: 60-yr-old-vines, no malo, 100% barrel, 3g dosage (biscuit, saline, butter, lemon zest, amer as in "amer biere," i.e. bitter in a good way). 5. Oeil de Perdrix 2013 Grand Cru Rosé Extra Brut: 75% Pinot Noir/25% Chardonnay, pinot noir in barrel, 2g dosage. A press rosé--not blending of still red wine as is common in the region (quelle finesse! rhubarb jam, cherry tart, pie crust, strawberry). 

My take: A comprehensive and fascinating tour! Charles is open and engaging and so clearly communicates both the process and his/his family's philosophy. A special experience with such elegant wines! They have a small hotel on site as well. More on Champagne Doyard. 

Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart, Ludes, Montagne de Reims, France

Wine: I love these wines--there is just so much going on in them! The style in general is rich and more concentrated yet incredibly fresh. Laurence Ployez is the 3rd generation vigneron in this family domaine. She uses only the 1st pressing for all of their champagnes and doses around 3-4 grams. There is a network of amazing tunnels beneath the domaine where the bottles sit for lees aging for a minimum of 3 years and up to 10+ years for the vintage wines. One level of tunnels sits 25 meters below ground and underneath another set of tunnels. Walking through the tunnels feels like walking back in time as you come across each stack of bottles and see the signs indicating the harvest year or cuvée number. 

Tasting of 4 wines: 1. Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV--but mostly 2006 harvest (citrus, brioche, fresh-baked bread, melon, apple). 2. Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2005 (hard cheese, salty, brulée, orange brioche, citrus). 3. Extra Brut 2005 1/3 chardonnay/1/3 pinot noir/1/3 meunier (wild strawberry, caramel, brioche, white mushrooms, round). 4. d'Harbonville 1998 Brut 100% chardonnay (fermented in oak, Chassagne-Montrachet with bubbles, mind-bogglingly good - tasted the 1999 too and it was even better). 

My take: Champagne is magic and this place proves it. Their caves are full of history and atmosphere. The wine making is impeccable. The tour is an excellent primer on the champagne method and is really fun too (the tunnels!).  A must in Champagne! More on Ployez-Jacquemart. 

Champagne Roger Manceaux, Rilly-La-Montagne, Montagne de Reims, France

Wine: Fourth generation grower-producer, Patrick Manceaux farms 12 hectares in premier cru and grand cru villages in and around Rilly-La-Montagne in the Montagne de Reims area of Champagne. He makes blanc de blancs, rosé and blanc de noirs and the styles range from delicate and fresh 100% chardonnay to fuller-bodied, more robust blends of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay (plus a demi-sec for dessert or foie gras). He makes 90,000 bottles from his own grapes, which takes 70% of his grapes; the other 30% he sells to 2 well-known champagne houses.

Tasting of 5 wines: 1. Brut Cuvée Reserve 45% Pinot Noir/30% Chardonnay/25% Meunier, 9g sugar (red fruits & biscuits). 2. Brut Rosé 55% Pinot Noir/35% Meunier/10% Chardonnay, 9g sugar (ripe strawberry, raspberry, white pepper). 3. Brut Grande Reserve 50% Chardonnay/50% Pinot Noir 7g sugar (lemon, red fruits, biscuits). 4. 2009 Brut Millesime 50% Pinot Noir Grand Cru/50% Chardonnay 1er Cru, 45-60 yr-old vines (honey, red fruits, brioche, lemon cream). 5. Heritage 2006 60% Pinot Noir/40% Chardonnay, Oak-aged (floral, tropical, brioche, orange brulee, round). 

My take: Education-packed tour! Patrick is transparent, enthusiastic and patient with question-asking. If you really want to understand how champagne is made, this is your tour. The Manceaux champagnes are lovely and fruity and classic. You can also stay at their grand house (the most beautiful house in town!) that adjoins the winery. More on Roger Manceaux and staying at Le Palais Champenois.